SENIOR HORSES AND SENIOR FEEDS- Different Feeds for Different Needs

This scene happens frequently in feed stores across the country:

Customer: “I need a bag of senior feed.”

Clerk (smiling): “Sure! Which one would you like?”

Customer (speaking slowly): “The…senior…feed.”

Clerk (still smiling): “Okay, we have several different kinds. Do you remember the name?”

Customer: “No, it has a horse on the bag though.”

Clerk (still smiling, but it’s a forced smile): “Do you know the name of the company that makes it?”

Customer: “No, but the other guy that works here knows what I get.”

Clerk (no longer smiling): “I’m sorry, he isn’t here today.”

Customer: “Then just give me any kind- they’re all the same, aren’t they?”

Ok, I hear you snickering. Yes, this really does happen! It illustrates two important points. First, you should know the complete name of the feed your horse is eating and not just “pellets” or “sweet feed” or “senior feed.” While there are many similarities, there are also important differences. That brings us to our second point: senior feeds are not all the same. There are different formulas because not all senior horses are the same.

Just what is a senior horse, anyway? There is no single definition. Horses are as individual as people are, so we must view each horse on his own. Some teenaged horses seem old before their time and some in their 30s are still as lively as ever. Certainly, horses in their 20s and 30s are seniors, and some in their teens can be considered seniors as well. Instead of assigning an age, it makes more sense to consider changes in the horse. We look for changes in their body condition, in joints that affect their mobility, at the condition of their teeth, their metabolism, their sociability, and their overall health. There are other signs, many of which are more subtle. As a friend who is an equine nutritionist says, “things work until they don’t.” When your current feeding routine no longer seems to do the job, it’s time to evaluate your horse and his job, and then think about changes.

We know that as horses get older, they are less able to make full use of the nutrients that we feed them. This means that they may not be able to absorb all the protein, vitamins, and minerals in the feed. They are also entering a period when dentition, or condition of their teeth, tends to deteriorate. It’s not uncommon now for horses to outlive their teeth. This wasn’t much of a concern when horses were considered old at 20 but now, thanks to increased research, better healthcare, and more advanced knowledge, many horses are still active in their late 20s and even into their 30s. Their teeth haven’t adapted yet though so your old guy can literally “grow out of his teeth.” Horses’ teeth continue to grow throughout their lifetime until they are worn down to a nub (think of a pencil that has seen many sharpenings.) Even if he maintains a full mouth of teeth, they are likely to be rounded and smooth, somewhat like mushroom caps. Smooth teeth aren’t very efficient at grinding and breaking down fibrous forage or hard grains such as corn.

Other aspects of equine old age are health conditions such as PPID (formerly known as Cushing’s), insulin resistance, and metabolic changes. Please don’t diagnose him yourself: have a conversation with your veterinarian on a regular basis about your old horse’s health.

Let’s start our talk about feed by clarifying a few definitions. There are senior feeds that are complete feeds and there are senior feeds that are not complete feeds. To add to the confusion, there are complete feeds that are not labeled as senior feeds. What’s the difference?

Senior feeds provide protein, fat, fiber, vitamins, minerals, and usually some probiotics. They tend to have higher levels of some nutrients because it’s understood that the horse won’t be able to use the full amount. By over-supplying the amount of the nutrients in the feed, hopefully the horse will be able to absorb what he needs. Senior feeds also tend to be easier to chew and digest to aid those horses with dental issues. It’s important to note here that you won’t find the same level of nutrients in every senior feed. We’ll talk more about that later in this article.

Complete feeds also provide protein, fat, vitamins, minerals, and fiber. They provide a lot more fiber though. Their purpose is to increase your horse’s fiber intake, or even replace it, if he can’t chew forages anymore. They are also an option if your horse can’t eat hay because of respiratory issues. If your hay is of poor quality, complete feeds are helpful. Essentially you can use them two ways: you can feed them with or without forage. The most common fiber source in complete feeds is beet pulp, but don’t assume that it is a complete feed just because it contains beet pulp. The only way to be sure is to read the bag. A true complete feed will have recommendations on the bag for feeding both with and without forage.

Senior complete feeds are even more specialized. They provide the higher levels of nutrients, and they can provide the forage that he needs if he can no longer eat hay or pasture. They are easy to chew and highly digestible. They can also be mixed with water to aid in chewing and swallowing and to increase water consumption (and as a nice warm treat on a cold winter night.)

Let’s review basic feeding guidelines. You know by now that I’m a stickler for how you measure your feed. You should be feeding by the pound, not the container. If you want to use that pretty berry blue enclosed scoop, that’s fine, as long as you know how many pounds you are feeding. Please don’t tell me that you are feeding a pound of feed just because you are using a one-pound coffee can. In its previous life that can held one pound of coffee, but I’ll bet it holds more than a pound of pellets, and less than a pound of extruded feed. And alfalfa pellets? Really dense. That means that there is more weight per volume of alfalfa pellets than other feeds. One person told me he was sure he was feeding a pound of textured feed because he was using a one-pound container that was meant for a non-food product. When I finally convinced him to actually weigh the feed that he was scooping out, he was surprised to find that it held close to two pounds of his feed!

A couple more points to remember: no more than five pounds of any concentrated feed at one meal. It’s too difficult for your horse’s digestive system to handle. Make any changes in concentrated feed over a long period of time. Two weeks is good, older horses may take even longer. The flora or “good bugs” in your horse’s digestive system need time to adapt. Discuss any health concerns with your vet and have a talk with a knowledgeable person at your feed store. Always offer plenty of fresh, clean water and free access to salt. Have his teeth checked at least twice a year, because good digestion starts in the mouth.

Okay, let’s return to the feeds. What is the best diet for a senior horse? How do you choose the right feed? Remember, the most natural diet for a horse is forage-based. If he can’t get all the calories, vitamins, and minerals from forage though, he needs help in the form of supplemental feeds or a ration balancer.

First, evaluate your horse and his job. Is he doing a lot of work or is he easing into retirement? If he’s a lesson horse, he needs calories, but not necessarily from carbs. If he’s loafing in his pasture and his teeth are good, he may do well on hay, pasture, and a ration balancer. If he’s getting skinny, he needs more calories. If he is not active and he’s getting fat, he needs fewer calories. If his muscles seem to be deteriorating, he needs more protein to help maintain his topline (remember, protein builds the muscle and exercise conditions it.) If he is at risk for metabolic issues or old horse issues, he likely needs to consume fewer NSCs (non-structural carbs aka starches and sugars.) If he has teeth issues, he is a good candidate for a senior complete feed that provides his fiber needs.

Luckily, there is a senior feed to fit every need, and that is why they are not all the same. Remember our customer at the beginning of this article? He’s about to get a lesson in why he needs to know which feed his horse eats!

There are senior feeds that are high in fat and there are ones that are low in fat. Think of fat as the calorie source. Horses tolerate fat quite well, and it’s easier to put weight on a skinny horse by increasing his fat consumption. On the other hand, horses that are easy keepers and start to reduce their work because of their age quickly become obese if they are getting too much fat in their diet. They need a low-fat feed or a ration balancer. If he is still very active and is competing, he may still do well on a higher NSC feed, unless he is starting to experience metabolic issues. In that case, a lower NSC feed is probably more advisable. Fat, fiber, sugars, and starches are all sources of calories for horses, but fat and fiber are safer sources for older horses.

There are senior feeds on the market that feature extruded nuggets, which resemble dog food kibbles. The thought is that these lightweight nuggets are more digestible and help to slow down the rate of food consumption, and that the process of cooking these nuggets helps to break down the starches. It is true that they are more easily digested than whole grains such as corn, but I don’t have strong opinions about them one way or the other. They shouldn’t be the deciding factor in what you feed your horse: you should look at the whole picture. If you decide to go with an extruded feed, then it is important that you weigh out his meals. Extruded feeds are less dense than pellets or textured feed, and because of the large size of the kibble, it’s easy to have more air and less feed in your measuring container than you think. Please don’t rely on that one-pound coffee can for your measure.

Here are some of the buzz words you’ll see regarding senior feeds:

• High fat- there is no definition for what is considered high fat (or low fat, for that matter.) Most of us can agree though that 10% fat and up is high fat, 4% through 9% is mid-range, and 3% is low.

• Low starch and sugar- just like fat content, there is no definition for low or high sugar and starch levels. This is very interesting, because companies seem to spin this to make you believe that their formula is low in NSCs. Personally, I consider a feed to be low in NSCs if the sugar and starch total 12% or less. I’m willing to consider upper teens and low 20s as mid-range, and above that is high. There are several popular senior feeds that claim to be low NSC although their sugar and starch content fall into the middle range. Read the bag! Don’t just believe the advertising. If your feed bag doesn’t tell you the starch and sugar content, it’s a safe bet that it is not low in NSCs, and likely varies based on the ingredients used.

• Controlled starch- this is NOT the same as low NSC. Many people mistakenly think that the two terms mean the same thing, and they don’t. Controlled starch means that the feed is formulated so that your horse’s digestive system breaks down the sugars and starches at a slow, consistent rate. This releases the simple sugars into his blood stream over a longer period of time, as opposed to a “sugar rush.” Controlled starch is a good indicator that the feed has a mid-range or high level of NSCs.

• Topline support- this is a feed that is likely high in protein to help build and maintain muscle.

• Metabolic concerns-these feeds have typically low to mid-range NSCs. They derive their calories from fats and fiber. They may be high or low in fat.

• Beet pulp based- beet pulp is a common ingredient in low NSC feeds and in complete feeds. Again, don’t assume that a feed containing beet pulp is a complete feed though. Always read the bag. Beet pulp is a fiber source and has very little sugar. It is what remains after the sugar is extracted from sugar beets. At roughly 1000 kcals per pound, it’s not a player in the high-calorie game.

It’s entirely possible that your feeding routine with your senior will have to change a few times as he gets older. You’ll certainly have to assess his needs more frequently and it can seem like it takes longer to see results. You may have to try several options before finding the best fit for your horse’s diet. Be patient, stay vigilant, and consult with your vet and feed store.

We’ll finish this up with a few more important points:

• just because the bag is labeled as a senior feed, don’t assume that it is low in NSCs or that it is a complete feed.

• Don’t make assumptions about the fat content- read the bag.

• Senior feeds can be expensive. If you are concerned about the cost, take the time to read the feeding recommendations and figure your cost per feeding.

• Ration balancers can help you fine-tune your senior horse’s diet. Remember that they are a supplement and are fed at a lower rate than a concentrated feed.

Finally, I don’t mean to imply that only older horses should eat senior feed. If you need to simplify your feeding routine, your younger horses can eat an appropriate senior feed too, once they are older than two (except for breeding stock, which have unique needs.) If you could only have two bags in your barn, the best choices would be a ration balancer and a senior complete feed. That’s what you’ll find in my barn!